The princess cut has earned its place as one of the most beloved diamond shapes in fine jewelry — and it’s easy to understand why. Its clean, square silhouette and exceptional brilliance make it a natural choice for engagement rings and anniversary pieces alike. If you’re considering a princess cut diamond ring, here’s what you should know before you begin your search.

What Makes a Princess Cut Diamond Unique

The princess cut is a square or slightly rectangular modified brilliant cut, typically featuring 57 to 76 facets arranged to maximize light return. It was developed in the latter half of the 20th century as a way to achieve the fire and brightness of a round brilliant while retaining the clean, modern lines of a square shape.

What sets the princess cut apart is that its pointed corners and angular geometry create a distinctly contemporary look — one that suits both classic solitaire settings and more elaborate designs equally well. The cut also tends to retain more of the rough diamond during the cutting process than a round brilliant, which can make princess cut stones a strong value relative to their carat weight.

Choosing the Right Princess Cut: The Four Cs

As with any diamond, cut, color, clarity, and carat weight all shape the quality and character of a princess cut stone. A few considerations are worth keeping in mind specifically for this shape:

• Cut: The princess cut’s brilliance depends heavily on the precision of its faceting. Look for stones with well-aligned facets and good symmetry. Because this cut amplifies both light and color, a slightly lower cut grade will be more noticeable than in some other shapes.
• Color: Princess cuts tend to retain color in their corners, so many jewelers recommend leaning toward the higher end of the near-colorless range (G–H or better) for a bright, white appearance.
• Clarity: The princess cut’s facet pattern can partially mask small inclusions near the center of the stone, but inclusions near the corners — which are structurally more vulnerable — are worth avoiding.
• Carat: Because the princess cut has a smaller face-up diameter than a round brilliant of equal carat weight, it can appear slightly more compact. Many customers find this contributes to an impression of greater depth and presence on the finger.

Princess Cut Settings: What Works Best

The setting you choose significantly affects how a princess cut diamond looks and wears over time. The pointed corners of a princess cut are the most delicate part of the stone, so protection matters.

• Four-prong settings — specifically those with V-shaped or claw prongs designed to cradle each corner — are the most common choice. They protect the corners while keeping the stone beautifully visible.
• Bezel settings offer full perimeter protection, wrapping the diamond in a rim of metal. This is an excellent choice for active lifestyles or those who prefer a sleeker, more modern profile.
• Halo settings surround the center stone with a border of smaller accent diamonds, which can visually enlarge the appearance of the princess cut and add considerable sparkle.
• Channel-set bands complement the straight lines of a princess cut naturally and create a cohesive, architectural look.

Natural vs. Lab-Grown Princess Cut Diamonds

Today’s buyers have a genuine choice between certified natural diamonds and lab-grown diamonds — and both are available in princess cut. Lab-grown diamonds are chemically, physically, and optically identical to mined diamonds; they are real diamonds in every scientific sense. The difference lies in origin and, typically, price. Natural diamonds carry the rarity and provenance that many buyers value, while lab-grown stones allow customers to prioritize size or quality at a given budget.

At M.S. Brown Jewelers, we carry certified natural and lab-grown diamonds at both our Wildwood and Cape May Court House locations and are happy to walk you through the honest trade-offs of each so you can make the choice that’s right for you — not simply the one that’s easiest to sell.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is a princess cut diamond more affordable than a round brilliant of the same carat weight?

Generally, yes. Because the princess cut retains more of the original rough diamond during the cutting process, less material is lost — and that efficiency is often reflected in the price. For a given carat weight, a princess cut will typically cost less than a comparable round brilliant, though the final price always depends on the specific combination of cut, color, and clarity grades.

Do princess cut diamonds show inclusions more easily than other shapes?

Not necessarily more than other brilliant cuts, but placement matters. Inclusions near the center of a princess cut can be partially masked by the faceting pattern, while inclusions near the corners are more visible and also sit at a structurally vulnerable point. When shopping, ask to see the diamond’s grading report and pay attention to where inclusions are mapped on the stone.

What metal looks best with a princess cut diamond ring?

This is largely a matter of personal preference. Platinum and white gold complement the clean geometry of a princess cut and allow the diamond’s color to read as neutrally as possible. Yellow and rose gold create a warm contrast that many wearers find striking, particularly with stones in the G–I color range where a touch of warmth in the diamond blends harmoniously with the metal.

How do I care for a princess cut diamond ring?

Regular, gentle cleaning with warm water and a soft brush will keep your diamond looking its best. Because the corners of a princess cut are more susceptible to chipping than a round brilliant, it’s worth having your setting inspected periodically to ensure prongs remain secure. Avoid wearing the ring during activities that could expose it to hard impact — a simple precaution that protects a meaningful investment.

Whether you’re beginning to explore engagement rings for the first time or returning to mark another milestone, we’d love to help you find the princess cut diamond that feels exactly right. Stop in and see us at our Wildwood showroom on Pacific Avenue or at our Cape May Court House location — our team is here to answer questions, let you compare stones side by side, and take as much time as you need. There’s no pressure, only good guidance.